Mass Wood working: 6

Showing posts with label 6. Show all posts

Monday, March 3, 2014

Bare Tool Makita BSS611Z 18 Volt LXT Lithium Ion Cordless 6 1 2 Inch Circular Saw Tool Only No Battery

Makita built, D35 high torque motor delivers maximum power for cutting 2x material at 45-degrees with 50-degrees capacity; compact design at only 13-5/8-inchlength and weighs only 6.9-pounds ( with battery, not included )for less operator fatigue; ergonomic shape fits like a glove with even pressure and easy control; heavy-gauge, precision machined base for smooth, accurate cutting and added durability; two-piece armature and field along with externally accessible brushes for serviceability and
Makita-built motor delivers 3,700 RPM for faster cutting and ripping through woodCompact, ergonomic design at only 6.9 lbs. for reduced operator fatigueDesigned with a large 2-1/4-inch cutting capacity at 90 degreesMakita LXT Lithium-Ion battery and Energy Star rated 30-Minute Rapid Optimum Charger produces 430% total lifetime work with 2.5X more cycles3-year warranty on tool
List Price: $ 218.00
Price: $ 79.99
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Related posts:
Bare-Tool Makita BPB180Z 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Portable Band Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) ReviewsBare-Tool Makita BHP452Z 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2-Inch Hammer Driver-Drill (Tool Only, No Battery)Makita BHP454 18-Volt LXT 1/2-Inch Lithium-Ion Cordless Hammer Drill Kit ReviewsMakita LXT211 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 2-Piece Combo Kit ReviewsMakita LXFD01CW 18-Volt Compact Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2-Inch Driver-Drill Kit
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Saturday, January 25, 2014

Its Wanderful Part 6

To make the stands for the Harry Potter wands I began with wood from my scrap pile. I took lengths of walnut which were left over from my Sawdust Chronicles Fall Build Challenge project and thin strips of curly maple left over from my Shaker Table Guild Build.

I created the curve with my oscillating spindle sander.

I milled the walnut flat and square and ripped the maple to an equal width. Then I took the maple, and using a block of wood clamped to the base as a fence, I sanded out shallow curves on the end of each piece with a 2” diameter drum in my oscillating spindle sander.

I set the bevel angle my eye, as it only had to look good and not match any specific angle.

Next I set my table saw to about 10° and made a cut across each end of the walnut, about 1” from the end. I used my Lee Valley Stop Rule to mark down about 1” from the top of each maple piece. I used this line to reference the top surface of the walnut and glued on the maple pieces to the center walnut piece.

Since the maple had been left long on its bottom end, I needed to create a custom caul that would have space for the long maple ends while still providing a reference for the walnut ends to be glued coplanar with the walnut center piece. To do this I laid out the wand stands along a piece of Timberstrand, marked out the recesses and then removed the wood with successive cuts from my miter saw.

The wand stand on the custom caul.

Though this notched caul worked great for alignment of the center and end pieces of walnut, I wasn’t thinking when I laid out the notches and there wasn’t enough room to allow clamping of adjoining pieces. Once I covered the caul in packing tape to prevent the glue from sticking to it, I then had to clamp the stands in two (2) alternating groups.

In clamp up.

Because the walnut was cut at a 10° angle, the maple-to-walnut glue joints were essentially end grain to side grain. Though I don’t expect much abuse, I wasn’t comfortable with this joint. Luckily (it was luck as no forethought went into it), standard sized Miller Dowels were long enough that they projected about ½” passed the walnut end/maple leg section and into the walnut center. I installed one (1) Miller Dowel in each end in order to reinforce the joint.

Though I assumed the stepped design of the Miller Dowel would make their installation easy, I found that the only way to properly seat them was to compress the entire wand stand in a parallel clamp and crush the dowels into submission. Once I figured out to use the parallel clamp, the dowels went in without much trouble.

Sanding the ends so the Miller Dowels are flush with the ends.

After leaving the dowels overnight to dry, I was able to cut off the excess dowel and the long bottom sections of the maple. The stands returned to my Ridgid orbital sander, this time with the belt set up in place of the drum. A few minutes of sanding on each stand, and the sides, ends and bottoms were left perfectly flat between the walnut, maple and dowels.

The constructed want stands go for a dry run.

To catch up on the want build (it was August of 2011), check out these posts.

Also, sorry for the blurry photos. Ill blame the crappy camera in my old Motorola Droid X.