Showing posts with label on. Show all posts
Showing posts with label on. Show all posts
Monday, February 10, 2014
Some Rambling Thoughts on Peter Cardew and the Meaning of Craft
I received a copy of Canadian Architect magazine in the mail the other day. It came with a special edition on Peter Cardew, recipient of the RAIC Gold Medal 2012. Peter Cardew is a Vancouver Architect who started his practice in 1980. I am reminded of a forum organized by the Craft Council of British Columbia in the late 1980’s or early 1990’s at Emily Carr College of Art. The subject of the forum was collaborations between craftspeople and architects. Peter Cardew was the architect invited to speak on the topic. I will always remember his presentation as confusing and awkward. I could not understand why of all the architects, he had been invited to speak on this topic. Reading this Canadian Architect publication all these years later gives me some ideas. Peter Cardew’s presentation at the CCBC forum consisted of showing slides of his work and making the occasional comment on the quality of work, or craft of some of the tradespersons involving in the production of his buildings. For example, he mentioned the quality of the concrete finishing on one project. Clearly there was a big difference between the craft work in his projects and the concept of collaboration between craftspeople and architects as understood by CCBC and its members. The collaborations that were the subject of the CCBC forum would involve the craftsperson being commissioned to design and produce work to compliment the architect’s design. Some examples might be a glass feature wall, ceramic lighting fixtures, wood furniture, a metal sculpture etc. For Peter Cardew, craft referred to the execution of his designs by tradespersons. The confusion involves the use of the word “craft” in the modern context. Today architecture is built by tradespersons, carpenters, joiners, masons, plumbers, electricians, etc. The word “craft” can be a verb or a noun. In each case it refers to the work of a craftsperson as in “to craft a piece of furniture” or “the potter’s craft”. The word “trade” can also be a verb or a noun but when used as a verb it does not refer to the work of a tradesperson. To trade a piece of furniture means to exchange it. Modern craftspeople have been struggling with their identity and place in our culture for decades. We no longer rely on craftspeople to make the things we need. In the modern world these things are produced by industry and distributed through stores. Craftspeople today see themselves as artists, as designers and makers of the unique things they produce. The role of the craftsperson has changed but language has not changed in step. The word “craft” is still used as it might have been centuries ago. In the production of architecture, craftspeople have been replaced with tradespersons. Rather than creating new words to describe the work of these tradespersons, the word “craft” has been retained. This I believe was the basis for the confusing presentation given by Peter Cardew at the CCBC forum. For the modern craftsperson, this confusion continues.
Read More..
Thursday, February 6, 2014
Update On My Portable Vise Design
A few weeks ago I posted an article about a portable vise I had designed. Before it was posted I had already placed an order with a local wood supplier for enough Beech to build it, but hit a snag a few days afterwards. The yard had problems coming up with Beech in the thickness I wanted, which was 1½". I called around to a few other local suppliers and heard the same story; nothing thicker than 1". I found that I could get the stock I needed from a supplier in the States, but was shocked at the cost to ship it up to me. When I stated such, the supplier said something that made me rethink my choice of Beech for this project, which was; "Beech isnt exactly the lightest species of wood." Given this is supposed to be a "portable" vise, naturally this comment caught my attention. I aint gettin any younger here, so not wanting to have to slug around something that weighed a ton, I thought I should do some more research.
Almost everything about workbenches that I came across stated that Beech was the material of choice, mainly due to its "density". Why everything to do with woodworking has to be so bloody technical, Ill never know, but I decided to see if there were other species of wood that came close to Beechs "density", but weighed less. I had seen Density Values listed on many different wood suppliers websites but I really didnt have a clue what it really meant, so I decided the first up on my agenda should be figuring out exactly what the hell "density" meant.
Huge mistake.
I really have to be honest here; I am so far removed from an analytical thought process, I dont even fully understand what that term really means, so trying to decipher pretty much all of the definitions for "Density" that I found was as impossible for me as making cream from sand. Why do those that post definitions on the web think everyone is as like-minded as they are? Hell, if I could think like them I wouldnt be reading their damned definitions in the first place, but instead, I would be posting my own, which, I must admit, is exactly what I am going to try to do here, but one I came up with that, hopefully, rewrites the gobbledygook in laymens terms.
den·si·ty (dĕnsĭ-tē)
So putting all rational thought aside, I took my new-found knowledge for a test drive and learned...
One of the main things I learned through this exercise was that I wasnt as smart an ass as I thought I was, so Im going to have to head back to the drawing board and come up with a better design for this portable bench that is lighter, but just as strong. I also learned that it will have to be made from...go figure...Beech, and more specifically, Beech in 1" thicknesses.
Peace,
Mitchell
Read More..
Almost everything about workbenches that I came across stated that Beech was the material of choice, mainly due to its "density". Why everything to do with woodworking has to be so bloody technical, Ill never know, but I decided to see if there were other species of wood that came close to Beechs "density", but weighed less. I had seen Density Values listed on many different wood suppliers websites but I really didnt have a clue what it really meant, so I decided the first up on my agenda should be figuring out exactly what the hell "density" meant.
Huge mistake.
I really have to be honest here; I am so far removed from an analytical thought process, I dont even fully understand what that term really means, so trying to decipher pretty much all of the definitions for "Density" that I found was as impossible for me as making cream from sand. Why do those that post definitions on the web think everyone is as like-minded as they are? Hell, if I could think like them I wouldnt be reading their damned definitions in the first place, but instead, I would be posting my own, which, I must admit, is exactly what I am going to try to do here, but one I came up with that, hopefully, rewrites the gobbledygook in laymens terms.
den·si·ty (dĕnsĭ-tē)
- Basically, the amount of wood in a piece of wood.
- The more "fibers" (read that as "wood") a wood has per square-whatever, the stronger it is.
- Density of wood is defined by a decimal value.
- The more dense the wood, the higher the decimal value.
- The higher the density value, the stronger the wood is, which means the less effect wailing on it has.
- There are as many different ways to calculate a woods density as there are species of the damned stuff, which causes me to believe that anyone in their right mind should stay the hell away from the subject whenever possible. (which, in turn, explains why I didnt)
- The standard way to measure the density of wood, or at least the way I gleaned it to be from reading about 100 different articles on the subject, is by taking the weight of a specific volume of wood which has been properly dried and dividing it by the weight of the same measurement of the same species of wood which hasnt, or is still "green".
- Once you understand the principles of calculating Density Values, you realize that to calculate it, you first have to find the weight of the particular species of wood you want to know about in both its green and dry configurations, and if you can do that, you can also find a Density Value list somewhere, so for Gods sake, use it, and forget about going through all this other shit!
So putting all rational thought aside, I took my new-found knowledge for a test drive and learned...
- A cubic foot of dried Beech has a weight of 45-pounds and by dividing that value by the weight of a cubic foot of green Beech, which is 54-pounds, the density factor of dried Beech is 0.8333, or at least that is the value I am going to apply to it, despite any critics.
- Comparing that value with one for Poplar, for which a cubic foot of dried has a weight of 28-pounds and a cubic foot of green is stated to be 39-pounds, means that Poplar has a density value of 0.737, much less than Beech.
- With those two values as a base for "good" and "bad" densities for workbench production, I checked out Black Maple, which is one of the harder species and one that weighs in at 40-pounds dried and 54-pounds green; giving it has a density value of 0.740, meaning it isnt much better as a material to build a workbench from than Poplar, which was a bit of a surprise.
- Checking out the Mahogany that I have had hanging around in my stash for over 10-years now and the material was thinking of using for this portable vise, I found it has a density value of 0.735, which tells me, as a workbench, it would really suck.
- So I did the same for the Red Oak that I also have in my stash, and found that its density value of 0.688, which means it will suck even more than the mahogany.
One of the main things I learned through this exercise was that I wasnt as smart an ass as I thought I was, so Im going to have to head back to the drawing board and come up with a better design for this portable bench that is lighter, but just as strong. I also learned that it will have to be made from...go figure...Beech, and more specifically, Beech in 1" thicknesses.
Peace,
Mitchell
Sunday, January 26, 2014
Doodling On Wood
I just finished another plane mount for the cabinet and I am pretty pleased with the results. Once I got it done I started to think about why I enjoy making things like this without drawing up plans for it first. In the end, I came to what I think is a pretty humorous conclusion.
As a kid, I was obsessed with doodling in the margins of every piece of paper put in front of me. My little doodles ranged from simple line drawings of patterns, to complex full-out sketches. While I could say that my mainstay was doodling cars, in truth, anything that popped into my imagination ended up somewhere in the margins of whatever paper showed up in front of me. I remember sitting through a biz class at university, years ago, where the prof was giving a lecture using an oil refinery as a business model. While he was droning on about production factors, arbitrages and variables, I was busy doodling a couple of 40-gallon oil drums mounted in a rack which I drew as being stored up against the wall of an old gas station. I wish I still had that sketch as it was pretty elaborate, with empty oil cans and rusted bits of car parts stacked all around the oil drums. It was probably one of the most enjoyable two-hour lectures that I ever sat through with that prof and probably also answers the question of why I ended up in the graphic arts business as well, but that is another topic.
Anyway, taking this trip down memory lane made me realize that my penchant for doing little woodworking projects without the benefit of plans is just an extension of the doodling I did before my computers made notepaper obsolete As a kid I doodled on paper. As an old fart, Im now doodling on wood.
Here is my latest doodle...

I know we are not talking about the second coming of a Chippendale piece here, but just an overdone plane mount in a wild and whacky tool cabinet. This time, though, I remembered to shoot some photos of the route I took to get to this mount, or rather, most of the route I took getting there. As most of you who will bother to read on will note, doodling with wood is like taking a car trip without a map; you might end up taking the long way around, but you eventually get there.
As this mount started life as a doodle, I had no real concept of what I was looking to produce when I started. All I knew was that I needed stock, so I started out with a hunk of 1" by 5½" by about 11" long piece of walnut, whacked it in half and glued the pieces together to make a fair sized chunk of wood. I already had the base which I had put together some time ago. It was about 12" long and made from two pieces that were glued at 90° on their outside edges, which, because their faces had been planed at a roughly 6° angle, would lean the plane towards the back of the cabinet to hold it in place.
I decided that whatever this hunk of wood would become, it would be attached to the base with dovetails, so working from the inside angle of the base, I marked out a set at each end and cut them before cutting the stock in half to make the two braces required. Leaving it whole gave me more stock for easier clamping.
Before you get to the image, I should explain that I have lost a bit more of my eyesight over the past couple of years, so I have started gluing paper to the darker woods I work with so I can see my markings easier. When I started doing this I just glued blank paper to the wood and made my marks with a pencil, but after a while, I realized that was dumb, so I changed that to reproducing the piece to size in the computer and doing the layout marks required on it. I then print off the results and glue the printout to the wood, giving me strong markings that I can see and accurate markings that I can follow. After Im done cutting the piece up, I just scrap off the paper and glue. It means extra work and time, but hey, ya gotta do what ya gotta do...

I started out making these pieces only as supports, but once I had the dovetails cut, I decided to go up with them instead of down, making them into combined supports and holders for the plane. That meant that I had to waste a lot of material towards the centre, conforming the outer edges of these cutouts with the toe and heel of the plane.
I started out using the plane the mount was to hold, the 10½, planing a trough that ran roughly in the middle that removed just less than half the thickness of the stock...

I then shaped the bottom of the trough with a rounding plane...

Then I cleaned it up with a smaller rounding plane, gouges, chisels and a sanding block that I had shaped to match the curvature of the planes toe...

It was at this point where I lost track of taking photos, but this is when I cut the piece in half. I knew I couldnt have just slots in these side pieces as that would result in having to drop the plane down into the mount, which would waste a lot of room in the cabinet, so I decided to expand the opening in their top edges, tapering it down to meet the cutout I had made in their bottoms, hoping that these expanded entrances would allow me to tilt the plane into the mount, but I still wasnt sure if it would work or not.
The 10½s tote projects beyond the heel of the plane so I matched its radius with a Forstner bit and drilled out a profile to match it in one of the pieces. I then expanded the top edge in the same manner as I did the toe.
I had dovetails on the bottom of each side-piece to attach them to the bottom of the base, but I needed to figure out the best way to attach them to the bases back, and for that, I needed long-grain to long-grain contacts. As the side pieces had the grain running vertical while the bases grain ran horizontally, the only way I could think of doing this was to cut a lap joint in each, even though the base was already assembled (the first time not having a plan caused me grief on this particular doodle). Cutting the lap was easy on the sides, but a bit of a bitch on the base, as the only way I could figure to cut true edges on it was to use a box-cutter against a square and removing the excess with a chisel. I did get er done though.
With the sides fitted, although still not in their final shape, I started the glue-up, which is when I ran into serious trouble. With the three pieces ready to assemble, each with a coat of glue on their mating parts, I suddenly realized I had to pee, and I mean really pee (see previous post). Never being shy of adapting, I can tell you that this particular plane mount is the only one so far that was assembled in the washroom. Let me tell you, I was really, really thankful I wasnt making a Georgian chest of drawers at the time.
Back in my office, I clamped the thing up and let it sit overnight. The next morning I started hacking away at one end of it without any real concept of where I wanted to end up. Playing around, I finally got the one end done to my liking and worked the other end so it matched. The result is one doodle that I really like...

The dovetails didnt turn out too shabby, either...


And here is where the plane section of the tool cabinet stands today...

I now have to figure out what I am going to use for fasteners for these mounts. Right now I have been using any screw that works, but once the section is finished, Im going to want to use a fastener that will not only do the job, but look good in the process. I dont want to bury them beneath plugs as I want to keep the cabinet adaptable to additions and revisions, which means keeping the heads exposed. Id also like something that looks very mechanical, but havent come across anything yet. If you have any suggestions, as usual, Im all ears.
Peace,
Mitchell
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)