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Sunday, February 23, 2014

THE LONG ROAD TO BEAUTY black antiqued chest

This black chest started out as a second hand find George found last month.

It was one of those projects that went south right away.

I decided to get a better handle on the milk paint.

I did learn how to mix it better for the sprayer.

Over the course of that evening the paint started to flake ..... EVERYWHERE I had sprayed it!

This photo of the original drawer handle shows what was happening pretty well.

If you look closely its not chipping shabby chic style its flaking everywhere.

Fortunately I didnt spray the sides, which ended up saving me some time later.

I moved on to the hardware.

I didnt care for the style or placement of what came on it,

so I filled those holes in and found the right spot.

Searched high and low for a nice complementary set of 8 handles that would work.

But only found 2 sets of 4 so they had to be matched up.

In came the oil rubbed bronze paint by Rustoleum.

Now back to the drawers, measuring and drilling new holes.

Ill show you how nicely they turned out shortly.

Next thing needed was to remove the broken apron and do some repairs,

Before adding new legs bought at Windsor Plywood.

The milk paint was adhereing to the top surface better,

and was looking pretty neat with all the chipping and flaking that still occured there.

With a great amount of sanding and poly I got it to this point, and very happy with it.

So I decided to match up the sides to have the same look, but without using

the dreaded milk paint.

I used a black wash with regular paint and poly.

After a month of having it sit on the side lines it was now time to deal with the

crappy flaking paint on the drawer fronts.

So one morning I sat in the shade and hand sanded every inch of them,

before masking off the top and sides to get it ready for good ole primer.

and then a beautiful smooth black spray job.

New handles added,

a bit more poly and wax,

And she is shining like never before.

I did try out some distressing but both George and I liked the sleek black look better.

It has a great antiqued effect on the sides and top,

and with the wax and poly it is so soft and smooth.

She would make an excellent TV stand in someones living space.

Saturday, February 22, 2014

How To Build Frameless Base Cabinets

Free Frameless European style base cabinet plans that you can build for your kitchen, bathroom, office, home theater or other renovations. This is more than just how to build a base cabinet. Its practically everything you need to know about building frameless base cabinets before you begin.

When I first tried to learn how to build cabinets I had a hard time finding all the information I needed. There was a little bit here, a little bit there, but nowhere did I find all the information all in one place. I did my best to combine most of what you need to know in one place to make things easier for you. Its a bit of a long read but if youre serious about building your own cabinets it to save money its well worth the time. One book I commonly saw mentioned was Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets (Popular Woodworking) by Danny Proulx which might be worth considering. I havent read it myself.

Frameless cabinets are easy and affordable to build. They also provide more usable storage space over face frame cabinets. Over the years Ive looked into different construction techniques for frameless cabinets and have put all that information together to help you build your own frameless base cabinets. To build matching wall cabinets see my post on How To Build Frameless Wall Cabinets. Construction of the base cabinet is relatively straight forward. The most difficult aspect is planning and sizing which will make up a good bit of this post.

Frameless cabinets have a more contemporary look but can be dressed up with trim and more elaborate doors to have a more traditional look.

In this article were going to focus on how to build a frameless base cabinet carcass. The cabinet carcass is the main box of the cabinet which does not include doors, drawer fronts or drawer boxes. The cabinet carcass can be configured in a number of different ways to allow doors, drawers, open shelving or any combination which suits your needs.

The frameless cabinet design I find easiest to build, install and provides exceptional strength is the one pictured right. It is made of 3/4" plywood throughout, including a full back. The top consists of 2 4" stretchers. Up to a 30" wide standard base cabinet carcass can be constructed out of a single sheet of 4 x 8 plywood.

This is the design well focus on but Ill address some other options and aspects.

Cabinet Base Options

There are 4 different ways you can configure the base of your lower frameless cabinet. Each one has its pros and cons.

Standard Base

The standard base has the sides and back of the cabinet extend all the way down to the floor and is notched in the front to provide a toe kick. The notch is 3" deep and 4-1/2" tall. There is a "sub toe kick" that provides additional support for the bottom and makes it easy to apply your finished toe kick cover (such as a decorative baseboard) over a continual stretch of cabinets for a seamless look.

This type of base is marginally more difficult to build and uses a little more plywood but you get a single cabinet unit which has advantages. Each cabinet needs to be shimmed individually to make it level. This is what most semi-custom cabinets you buy look like.

Standard Base No Toe Kick

Sometimes you wont need a toe kick at all such as when youre building a built-in desk or library. This base has the same pros and cons as the standard base except it has no toe kick. Instead a decorative board, the same thickness of the doors, is applied over the base of all cabinets after installation for a seamless look.

Adjustable Cabinet Legs

Adjustable cabinet legs (such as these Platte River Cabinet Leveling Legs or better Blum Leg Levelers and Blum Kick Plate Clips) make installation of cabinets very easy on uneven floors and lets face it, most floors have some degree of unevenness to them.

Whats more, its easy to make changes to the cabinet height during installation (and with a little more work after installation) if the need arises.

The toe kick board gets screwed onto a plate that clips onto the legs after all cabinets have been installed and leveled. Unlike the standard base, its easy to add a toe kick on the side of a cabinet such as the exposed end of a cabinet run. It also makes it easier to change the toe kick board to change the look of your kitchen at a later date.

Since the wood cabinet is kept off the floor these are good for spaces where dampness is an issue such as in basements, garages or other areas where cabinets are installed on a concrete slab floor.

The downside is it will add a little bit extra to the cost of each cabinet but not much and the benefts will usually outweigh the cost.

Separate Base Platform

Finally you can create a separate base platform that consists of a frame made up of 2x4s with a plywood top giving you a total toe kick height of 4-1/4" (3-1/2" 2x4 + 3/4" plywood). Whats nice about this arrangement is you level the platform before installing the cabinets. Then you just need to place your cabinets on the platform without having to do much if any additional leveling. The base is also sturdier than a base that is part of or attached to your cabinets.

You can even create toe kicks on the sides of cabinets where necessary such as the end of a cabinet run or a kitchen island.

Cabinet Back Options

You also have a few options on how you construct the back of the cabinet.

Full Back

You can choose to use a full back that is the same 3/4" plywood used for the rest of your cabinet. (Some people choose to use 1/2" but I find its easier to just use one thickness throughout.) This configuration will give you an enclosed cabinet with exceptional strength which is important when installing heavy stone countertops and supporting heavy countertop appliances. It can be a little more money but not much if you plan your cuts out well. Well be using the Full Back in the example in this article.

Nailer Back

Sometimes you dont care if a cabinet has a back or not, such as in garage storage cabinets. This option can save on material. Instead of having a full back you create 2 nailing strips out of 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom of the back so you have something to affix the cabinet to the wall with and to provide rigidity and strength to the cabinet.

1/4" Back With Nailers

In some cases youll want to have an enclosed back but you want to save some money. You can use nailers as in the previous option but also staple a 1/4" plywood back over the nailers to provide a finished look. This is cheaper than using a full back and provides a lighter cabinet. Many semi-custom cabinet manufacturers use this technique. It doesnt add as much strength as a full back but it does give you the look and feel of one. The 1/4" plywood is more prone to warping than the 3/4" plywood and may bow out over time.

What Youll Need

Tools

Table saw or circular saw and guide for making accurate and square cuts in plywood.
Combination square
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Kreg Shelf Pin Drilling Jig

Materials

3/4" hardwood veneered plywood is the best option for building your cabinets. If youre taking the time to build your own cabinets might as well make them the best you can. Youre still going to save money over most semi-custom cabinets that are usually made out of 5/8" particle board and wind up with a better quality cabinet.

Plywood comes in different apperance grades. A1 being the best. If you plan on painting your cabinets or dont care about the apperance (garage cabinets) you can use a lower appearance grade cabinet. If you must use MDF to save money make sure you glue your joints in addition to using the appropriate pocket screws .

Step 1: Calculate Cabinet and Component Dimensions

Chances are you will want to build a different sized cabinet than what Im going to show in this example. In most cases youll want to build multiple cabinets of different sizes so lets go over how to calculate the dimensions of the different components that make up the carcass.

Cabinet Height

The height of the cabinet will be determined by the application. For example the standard height for the top of a kitchen work surface is 36". If our countertop thickness will be 1-1/2" that means our cabinet needs to be 36" - 1-1/2" or 34-1/2" tall.

Cabinet Height = Desired Top Height - Top Thickness

Some common work type heights are:

Kitchen 36"
Bathroom Vanity 33" to 36"
Desk 30"

Cabinet Depth

The standard depth for kitchen cabinets is 24" which includes the door. This should work for most situations but you may want to check the specifications of your appliances (slide in range, dishwasher, etc) to see if they require a different size.

For bathroom vanity cabinets the standard depth is 21". For desks and other custom cabinets you can choose whatever depth works best for you though most are 20-30" deep.

Cabinet Width

This one is easy. The cabinet width is determined by your design and your preferences.

Cabinet Component Dimensions

In our example were going to be constructing a 30" W x 34-1/2" H x 24" D cabinet using 3/4" plywood. Well be making it with a standard base and a full back. In all the dimensions below the direction of the grain will follow the height.

*Note: if youre using thick edgebanding youll need to factor that in where appropriate. Most edgebanding is less than 1/32" thick which is pretty insignificant so I dont factor it in most of the time. As long as its used consistently and applied before assembly I consider it an acceptable margin of error. Wood expands and contracts. Not all human cuts are very accurate. Consistency is more important over precision and it makes calculating sizes and cutting components much easier.

Cabinet Side Dimensions

We will need two sides for the cabinet. The height of the side is simply the height of our cabinet minus an external base if using one. The width is the depth of the cabinet minus the thickness of the door.

Cabinet Side Height = Height of Cabinet - External Base (34-1/2" - 0 = 34-1/2")

Cabinet Side Width = Depth of Cabinet - Door Thickness (24" - 3/4" = 23-1/4")

Well need 2 34-1/2" x 23-1/4" sides for our cabinet.

Cabinet Bottom Dimensions

The height for the bottom of our cabinet will need to be the width of our cabinet minus twice the thickness of the sides. The width will be the depth of the cabinet mins the back depth minus the door thickness. (Be careful sometimes advertised size isnt true size. A digital caliper can help you get an accurate thickness measurement. Your 3/4" plywood may sometimes be 23/32" or something else entirely.)

Cabinet Bottom Height = Cabinet Width - 2 x Side Thickness (30" - 2 x 3/4" = 28-1/2")

Cabinet Bottom Width = Cabinet Depth - Back Thickness - Door Thickness (24" - 3/4" - 3/4" = 22-1/2")

Well need one back that is 28-1/2" x 22-1/2".

Cabinet Shelf Dimensions

If youre installing a shelf in your cabinet (as our example does) you want to size it appropriately. Its basically the same dimensions as the Bottom minus a little depth (1/2") so that it stays clear of the doors even if there is some expansion.

Cabinet Shelf Height = Cabinet Bottom Height (28-1/2")

Cabinet Shelf Width = Cabinet Bottom Width - 1/2" (22-1/2" - 1/2" = 22")

Cabinet Back Dimensions

We can use some of the previous dimensions we calculated to determine the dimensions of the back of the cabinet. The back of the cabinet will rarely be seen and even when it is it wont be lit very well. While its nice to have a consistent grain direction for the backs you might be able to save a sheet of plywood by mixing the grain direction up for the backs if you dont mind a little inconsistency in an inconspicuous location.

Cabinet Back Height = Cabinet Bottom Height (28-1/2")

Cabinet Back Width = Cabinet Side Height - Stretcher Thickness (34-1/2" - 3/4" = 33-3/4")

Our cabinet needs one back measuring 28-1/2" x 33-3/4".

Stretcher and Sub Toe Kick Dimensions

Grain direction should be along the long side but in most cases these components will hardly be seen so feel free to change the orientation if it helps you maximize the usage on your cut plan.

Stretchers should be 3-4" wide, the sub toe kick should match the height of the notch cut into the base (4-1/2" in our example). The height of both should be the same as the Cabinet Back Height (28-1/2").

Well need 3 stretchers (4" x 28-1/2") and one sub toe kick (4-1/2" x 28-1/2")

Step 2: Attach Side To Back

Wow! Youve read all this way and were just starting to put the cabinet together! Careful planning makes the rest of the process easy.

Start by applying edgebanding to the front of both cabinet sides.

Drill pocket holes around the top and sides of the Cabinet Back and attach it to one of the sides as shown.

Notice that the bottom of the back is flush with the bottom of the side. There is a 3/4" space on the top of the back for the stretcher that will eventually be installed.

Step 3: Attach Bottom

Apply edgebanding to the front of the bottom, drill pocket screw holes as shown and attach the Bottom to the Side and Back previously assembled. Notice that the bottom of the Bottom is flush with the notch for the Toe Kick. Use your square to make sure everything is aligned properly.

Step 4: Attach Other Side

Attach the other side to the cabinet assembly using the previously drilled pocket holes in the Back and Bottom pieces.

Step 5: Attach Stretchers

Apply edgebanding to the front of the 2 stretchers that will be attached to the front. Drill pocket holes and attach to the cabinet making sure everything is square. The bottom stretcher on the front is for the first drawer. To minimize visibility of the pocket holes install them with the pocket holes facing up. (The drawer will hide the second front stretcher holes.)

In this example were assuming the cabinet will have a single full width drawer and 2 lower doors. The spacing for this bottom section will be determined by the desired drawer height. The standard top drawer height is 6". Were planning for overlay drawers and doors. A 1/4" gap should be on the top to avoid any binding against the counter top. That means the second front stretcher should be 6-1/4" down from the top of the cabinet.

Step 6: Install Sub Toe Kick

The Sub Toe Kick helps support the cabinet and add rigidity. It also makes it easy to nail in the finished kick board after installation. Drill pocket screw holes and attach it between the cabinet sides as shown.

Step 7: Drill Shelf Pin Holes

Using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig make holes in the back and front of each side of the cabinet for shelf pins. Leave at least 3-4" on the top and bottom for room to install your door hinges depending on where you drill the bores for your hinge cups on the door.

Use the short side of the jig without the fence to get the holes 37mm from the front edge of the jig. When doing the back, flip the jig around.

When youre done, apply edgebanding to the front of the shelf, insert shelf pins in the appropriate locations and install your shelf.

To learn how to make drawers see my post on How To Make Drawer Boxes.

Thursday, February 20, 2014

What to Get for Your Landscaping Lights

Landscaping almost alchoices has its own equipments, tools, and accessories. So it is a must that when planning to landscape or remodel your residence, or if you are dong it as a career, you have to do some prior lay outing and marking of the needed materials. One thing that must not be forgotten is the Landscaping lights that will add glory on the appearance of the landscape especially at night or darker weather conditions.

The grander the lighting equipments and colors you use, the more elegant it will appear on the eyes of passersby and viewers. Lighting though must be properly picked as you don’t want to have a dull accent when you are hosting a party or an occasion at home. But it must not be forgotten also that choosing the right lights should also conform to safety purposes first and aesthetic value must be secondary only.

Also, you have to consider the economical side of the lighting equipments you use because there are low-voltage landscaping lights that are brighter and in different colors where you can surely find a match. All in all, a light must be for safety purposes while proving to be economical and elegant.

There are basically many types of landscape lightings. One outdoor type is the Malibu landscape light that is installed n such a choice that it goes in a runachoice effect. It is best n lighting a path choice or walkchoice. This landscape light is very efficient as it just light up as soon as the sun light starts to diminish. But then, it is usually used for its function of providing light and not to focus or accentuate a particular part or area in the landscape.

For increased security against intruders at home, you can get or fix an up-lighting light. Find a low voltage outdoor light and light up paths and drives in your residence. You can also place one or two on the pool side or other entry areas so as to provide a booming light that will eventually discourage entry of unnecessary persons. Down-lighting is also another good choice of lighting up your landscaped residence.

This is also called as moonlighting and is n use for safety, security and aesthetics purposes by most landscape designers. Backlighting, or silhouette lighting, is another. This gives that "special effect" I a landscaped area at night or when the occasions calls for it.

When the right landscape lightings are used at the most proper place and location of landscaped surroundings, it will provide accent that will better the overall appearance of the residence, institution, or anywhere it will be used on. Since it is a very important equipment and material in the task, it is recommended that a designer or contractor be very specific in finding the right piece or pieces. For economic and elegant lighting fixtures, high intensity discharge auto lights are recommended rather than the incandescent or halogen.

The color and shape of the lighting fixture must also be considered because it will definitely have an effect on the result. If you are maintaining a weathered, old world look on your landscape then a little toned down light will help achieve that overall impact you want. If you want something contemporary, then you might as well opt for something modernly shaped and colored, too.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Starting to Put It Together In My Mind

It wasnt really all that long ago, in historical terms, that average and mostly anonymous craftsman created many pieces of furniture that are cherished and venerated today. Their work commands a kings ransom at auction houses and is treasured in museums and the homes of collectors. It could be argued this reverence comes from the history and age associated with the pieces, but if thats the case why are the collections Ive been able to visit most housed in art museums? Why do modern artisans and craftsmen struggle to recreate these pieces down to the millimeter of accuracy. Lets not even mention the piles of plans and measured drawings produced by the woodworking media to sell us the latest "newly discovered, never before published" version of a Newport Highboy or Shaker Cabinet.

Ive been thinking a lot about design and furniture styles and nearly everything encompassing those circles lately. The impetus for these rumblings comes from two sources. The first is our new house and the sad fact that we dont have enough good furniture to suit ourselves. I can build furniture and I can fix this problem, but I want to build furniture that will last us the rest of our lives, so building beautiful furniture that is designed right for our tastes and lifestyle is important. I want the pieces I build to work together with each other and with the house itself. Similar in experience to what I was talking about HERE after reading "Poems of Wood and Light."

The second is I have been reading my way through the new book from Lost Art Press by George Walker and Jim Tolpin called "By Hand and Eye." The book speaks to me from my own interest in history. Ive spent good time and energy figuring out how woodworkers of the past created furniture from a technical point of view. Planing boards flat by hand and cutting dovetails with a backsaw. But the technical side is only half the picture. Knowing how to fold a crease into a piece of paper doesnt give you the ability to create origami and knowing how to make a mortise and tenon joint with a chisel and saw doesnt imply the ability to make beautiful furniture.

"The Joiner and Cabinetmaker" is one of the better woodworking tomes put to print in the last decade or more. Ill give the caveat that it is a mostly a reprint of an older book accompanied by research. In general it is very well received and I cant remember ever reading a dissenting or belittling review of it.

Fairly early on in the text of the actual book (Pg 56 - 58) there is a small passage that fascinated me when I read it, yet it seems to have garnered little notice. Reading "By Hand and Eye" brought this passage back to mind and I had to revisit it again. It tells about the care an apprentice must take if he is to go out to a customers home and measure the space to fit a new cabinet. It goes on about how he must carefully check and double check the height, width, depth, and write these numbers legibly on a piece of paper, scratching them onto the back of a snuff box with a point of a nail is unacceptable.

The books point of view puts you in the shoes of the apprentice, but after re-reading the book a couple times I started to think of this passage from the journeymans point of view.

Picture it.

Youre working hard in the shop on a Wednesday morning, putting the finishing touches on a clients chest of drawers. Suddenly the Master stops at your bench and hands you a piece of paper with measurements the apprentice Thomas was sent to collect yesterday. On the paper is the numbers for height, width, and depth and maybe a few other notes in the Masters hand. The cabinet is to be made of oak and deal and have drawers underneath and doors on top.

Now hop to it!!

I would argue that anyone could slap a box together to fit into those proscribed measurements, but you have to take into account the information and tradition reinforced in the rest of the book. The apprentice tradition described worked very hard to build on a foundation of good, careful, quality work. A tradition of doing things the right way the first time. It was of the utmost importance the client be happy with the finished piece and all the careful dovetailing in the world wont help a malformed, misshapen piece that belongs on the island of misfit toys.

I wonder how I would fare if placed in that situation. Surely I could hit the measurements, but would my work have visual appeal? Would it be utilitarian enough to perform its duties? Would it survive the test of time and someday be placed in a cozy,, climate controlled museum as a prime example of furniture from the period.

I probably could do all these things if given enough time and enough chance at trial and error. Certainly if I sketched out a measured drawing or four then proceeded into several versions of mock-ups and prototypes until I had the details dialed in satisfactorily. But could I do all this and build the final cabinet in around a weeks time?

The end of this passage in the book talks about Bill Sharp. He was a good workman who was just a little sloppy and poor at taking and following measurements. He was dismissed from the shop because his cabinet wouldnt fit in the space measured. The book says it was a good cabinet though and it only took him a week to build it.

Could you design and build a successful cabinet in a work week?

Up until now Im not sure I could either. But the book "By Hand and Eye" is opening my eyes on how an 18th century journeyman may have attacked the problem "at the point of the tool" and it has been quite a journey for me so far. Ive not even finished my first tour through the pages and Im already picking up so much. I should say Im relearning a lot of the things I learned to years ago in Art and Humanities classes and have forgotten or misplaced over time.This is a good thing.

Im learning its OK to trust my eye. Learning to break things down into shapes and proportions. Learning to size things to the body and the space its to fit into. Other design books Ive read have been profiles in particular styles or focused on measurements with some nods to perspective and other larger ideas. They just havent been all that this book has been so far.

Cutting dovetails is easy. Designing the right piece, with the right place, for those dovetails, thats much more challenging. With the furniture I have to build for this house and the work I want to accomplish in my writing pursuits Im glad to have this book in my hands and now that the new shop is finally in order, I can start to put it to practice and build the pieces that fit us, fit our house, and fill our lives.

Ratione et Passionis

Oldwolf

Which Kreg Pocket Hole Jig To Buy

Almost all woodworking projects require joining two pieces of wood together. There are a number of different joints that can be used to create a strong connection between 2 pieces of wood but the easiest and most affordable way for the DIYer is to use pocket hole joints. Kreg makes the most popular pocket hole jig on the market.

Kreg makes a number of different pocket hole jigs that range in price from very cheap, to somewhat expensive. This post will help you decide which Kreg jig to buy.

Why Pocket Hole Joints?

Pocket screw joinery is the best option for the do-it-yourselfer because pocket screws create very strong joints and dont require you to have a lot of special or expensive tools that you wont use frequently.

Dowels, biscuits, half lap joints, dovetaills, and so on are time consuming and sometimes require specialty tools. If youre not a full time carpenter and just like to build things from time to time because it not only saves money but its fun, its important to not spend a lot of money on tools that will collect dust. All you need are butt joints which are easy to cut even on a small budget. See my post on how to make square cuts. Getting perfectly square cuts will ensure a straight project and strong joints.

You dont need dozens of clamps! The screws will hold the work pieces together. Clamps arent cheap and even small projects wind up needing more clamps than I have. I built a number of euro style cabinets to make a built-in desk and I dont own a single expensive, long bar clamp!

Kreg Mini Pocket Hole Jig

The Kreg Mini Kreg Jig Kit only costs around $20 and is a good pocket hole jig to have even if you have more expensive Kreg Jigs because it can get into spaces others cant, like under stairs to make repairs and into tight corners. If you already own another Kreg Jig you can save some money buy just buying the Kreg MKJ Mini Jig by itself without the accessories.

The accessories that come with the Mini Kreg Jig Kit are a special stepped drill bit that makes the pilot hole and pocket hole in one step. The bit comes with a stop collar and an 4mm hex key for adjusting the collar.

The Kreg Jig Mini makes the same pocket holes its big brothers make. This is the only Kreg Jig I own and Ive used it for numerous projects including cabinets for a built in desk. I learned how strong the pocket screws were when I moved dozens of sheets of drywall with my DIY panel carriers.

Its a little slower to use than the other jigs because you have to manually place the jig in the correct spot. Using makeshift spacers made it easier and using the Kreg Face Clamp speeds things up even more. You can get a Vise-Grip Locking C Clamp with Swivel Pads for about half the price but the Kreg Face Clamp has larger pads which will minimize the risk of putting dents in the wood.

Kreg Jr. Pocket Hole Jig

In hindsight, I should have bought the Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System vs the Kreg Mini. Its only about $20 more than the Kreg Mini Jig but it comes with everything you need including a 3" square driver, some screws, pocket hole plugs as well as a case.

The Kreg Jr is a lot faster to use than the Kreg Mini because it comes with built in guides that can be adjusted for the thickness of material youre working with and the case includes a guide to help you adjust the stop collar on the drill bit.

One of the things that slowed me down a lot was having to stop and change the stop collar. In building my desk I used 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and Id have to stop and readjust the collar using a tape measure. It was a very clumsy process.

With the Kreg mini I would have to unclamp, move the jig over, position it using the spacers, clamp it back down, drill and repeat. With the Kreg Jr I would have been able to just slide the jig over and not have to spend time realigning the jig. When youre making dozens of pocket holes, those few seconds saved each time really add up. A plastic insert allows you to attach the Kreg Face Clamp to the Kreg Jr Jig which makes repositioning the jig with one hand a snap.

Kreg K4 and K4 Master Pocket Hole Jig

The Kreg Jig K4 and Kreg K4MS Jig Master System are meant more for professionals and the serious DIYer woodworker. The K4 runs around $100 and the K4MS goes for about $140. The Master System is essentially the same as the K4 with some extra useful accessories such as the face clamp, portable base, 6" square driver (in addition to the 3" driver) and a material support stop. If youre going to buy the K4 instead of the R3, might as well spend the extra $40 because those accessories come in handy.

The K4 and K4MS are more durable than the other systems. Because the drill guide is stationary and the work piece gets clamped to the dril guide you dont get a small point of pressure from the clamp on the plastic drill guide. My Kreg Mini has some dents in it from clamping with a standard C-clamp but is still usable.

If you frequently make pocket holes and have space on your workbench to permanently or temporarily affix the Kreg K4 Jig, youll save yourself a lot of setup time. Just slide the work piece in the jig and clamp it down with one hand. A dust collection port allows you to hook up your shop vac to keep your work area clean.

Kreg Micro Pocket Hole Jig

The Kreg Jig Micro Drill Guide System makes 25% smaller diameter pocket holes and uses smaller pan head screws which allows you to make pocket holes in thinner stock.

If you frequently use 1/2" plywood or boards to make drawer boxes or picture frames, the Kreg Micro is for you. The Kreg Micro fits into the same bases and accessories that come with the K4 Master system and it can be used on its own with spacers.

Even though the other Kreg Jigs can make pocket holes for 1/2" stock, many times 1/2" plywood comes in actual thicknesses of less than 1/2" and reducing the size of the pocket hole makes for sturdier construction in thinner pieces.

Kreg Jig HD Pocket Hole Jig

The Kreg Jig HD Starter Kit KJHD is specially designed for thicker stock such as 2x3s, 2x4s and other 2x dimensional lumber. The holes are 25% bigger which provides up to 50% greater strength. This new Kreg Jig was first released in 2012.

Special screws were developed for the new jig that are larger and have a 3 special coatings to resist corrosion. This is a great jig for outdoor projects such as planter benches, outdoor furniture as well as indoor furniture made of dimensional lumber such as workbenches.

The Kreg HD drill guide can accept the Kreg Face Clamp and fits in the K3 and K4 jigs.