Mass Wood working

Can give an idea about how to design a particular wood working product. They also give information about the material that has to be used in making a certain product.

A wide range of free wood working plans are available on the internet. Indeed you will get valuable information from free wood working plans that can be used for home renovation purposes. On some websites amateur wood workers share their experience, tips and ideas that make up for great free wood working plans. Some free wood working plans that are commonly used are bookcase plans, bed plans, shed plans, workbench plans and entertainment centre plans

Cherry Bookshelf plans: It consists of 13 pieces that are screwed and dadoed together. The shaping and joinery is done with the help of drill press and a table saw. The bookshelf has slats and pyramid top posts. Cherry wood is used as it is lighter. You can use other types of wood such as quatersawn white oak. For building this bookcase you require screws, screw hole plugs, slates and shelves. The dimensions of these items will differ according to your requirements.

Break Down Chair Plans: This high backed chair and has no wedges or pegs. You can easily make 2 chairs out of 4’x8’ sheet of good quality plywood. It is very easy to make these chairs.

Antiqued Table plan: Clear pine is used to make this antiqued beauty. Tools that are required to make this table are trim saw or handsaw, bits and drill, spray bottles, wet rag and belt or orbital sander. Materials that are required to make this table include legs, apron, fastening strips and table top. You also require screw and washer, shellac and carpenter’s glue and 8 hanger bolts. Depending on the size of table you want, you should select the dimensions.

Circular Kitchen Table Plan: Solid black walnut wood is used to make this kitchen table. The tabletop which has a radius of 2 feet is a perfect circle. The circular top is on a pedestal base which is constructed using laminated bridle joints. Warmth of this wood enhances as tung oil and polyurethane are used for protecting the finish. The contemporary design of this antique table is much more attractive than formal dining style. Jointer, jigsaw, hand router and some other tools are required to make this piece.

Mahogany bed plan: This ideal master piece is ideal for any bedroom décor. The bed is made from solid mahogany. The bed with its contemporary style has convenient rail hangers A series of slats are required for supporting the bed. A box spring is not required once you use these slats. Depending on the thickness and length of the mattresses the dimensions of the bed will vary. The dimensions should be such that it should be able to handle queen size mattresses. The bed is designed in such a choice that you can disassemble it easily.

Jewelry Box plans: This elegant case has a simple design. If there are some beautiful small wooden boards in your house then you can make this box on your own. It won’t take you long to build this attractive box. This can indeed be a perfect last minute gift for a friend.

Okay, this was going to be my first book “review”, but it has turned out to be more of a book ramble. The book is How to Work With Tools and Wood: For the Home Workshop, published in 1927 by the Stanley Rule & Level Plant.

I have no idea who actually wrote the book, and the signature of the foreword is no help at all…

I’m sure that one of the main reasons that Stanley published this book was to help sell tools. And yet there is more to it than that. There is a lot of discussion of aesthetic, craftsmanship and beauty in here too. I’d really like to know who wrote it.

This book is great for three reasons: 1. it smells good 2. it is tremendously campy and 3. it is full of great hand tool information.

First the smell:

What can I say, I love the way old books smell (NOT the moldy ones!). For me, it is a mix of my Grandmother’s attic; the old, old books I was always shelving in Drew University’s library; and summers in Vermont, reading an old book in the sun.

Now the camp:

Exhibit A:

Exhibit B:

I don’t think I need to say anything more.

Finally, the hand tool content:

It’s a great introduction to hand tool work that starts with a chapter titled “All of Us Can Use Tools” which addresses confidence and rational. I particularly like the hand tool philosophy stated here:

“The fact is that almost anything which we use can be made stronger, more simple, more beautiful, by loving hands than it can by machinery. There is no reason why a kitchen shelf may not be fundamentally beautiful. There is no reason why a door cannot be hung so that it swings at the touch of a hand and is beautiful because it is simple and rugged.

If you will learn to make an ordinary mortise, to form a dovetail joint, a halved joint, or to plane the edge of a board so that it is square; if you will learn to drive a nail straight, to put heavy screws in oak without splitting the board, and handles on a drawer so that they are straight: your work in wood should be beautiful.”

And:

“…You can go to a store and buy a candlestick complete and ready for use, varnished and polished, for from 10 cents to $5.00. You can make that candlestick yourself with perhaps no saving in money. But when you have made it and it is standing on the mantelpiece you have always before you as you look at it the memory of a sharp tool cutting into well seasoned wood. Through your hands, and your hands alone, the world is richer by the existence of that object that you can hold in your hand.

That is the satisfaction which the artisan in paint, the artisan in words, or the artisan in steel, stone, glass or wood feels. There is something priceless about it. You have a value that no man can take from you. Let the candlestick become blackened and charred, let it be broken by careless hands and still the joy of its creation cannot be taken from you, it is yours for the length of your life.”

Pretty deep stuff for old Stanley. It seems to me, that today, most “How To” books focus on the techniques (the actual “how to…”) and don’t involved themselves in the “Why” like this book tries to do – albeit a little strongly sometimes.

There is some very solid hand tool information. Topics covered include: a basic set of hand tools, tool chest (“…which is their respected domicile.”), bench, basic layout, hand sawing, cross-cutting vs. ripping etc., how to set and use a plane, truing up stock, boring with a brace and bit, mortising, how to bore and countersink screws, various work holding devices (including Stanley’s funky little Bench Bracket), the advantages of working from a detailed set of plans (available from Stanley…), finishing, sharpening, and several basic projects.

Throughout the book, illustrations are used to clarify or explain key points. Here is a classic:

One of the photographs from this book was also used by Stanley to advertise their project plans and chests of tools. Here it is, thanks to: http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/

If you are interested in hand tool basics and/or enjoy reading old books, I highly recommend this book. It comes up frequently on eBay, doesnt go for too much, is full of good information, amusing photos and, at least for me, great philosophy.

For the past several days, I have begun to stain the cherry panels and have finished prepping the solid cherry trim. For this phase, I had to take one whole day to de-dust the shop. When finishing, you need a clean environment.
I thought this would be a great opportunity to talk about gel stains. Gel stains are a different animal than water or oil based stains, and need to be treated as such. Gel stains came out a few years back when people wanted a "wipe on and its done" type of stain. What came out on the market because of that was gel stains, but theyre certainly not a one-coat-and-your-done type of stain. As a matter of fact, they are sometimes more difficult to work with than oils. In addition, cherry tends to blotch no matter what type of stain is used, so this is certainly a high maintenance stain job!

I begin by sanding down to no more than 100 grit. Cherry needs no more than that. Then I remove as much sanding dust as possible. I wipe the piece with denatured alchol to remove fine particles, and also to show any flaws. I put on the first coat using a swirl motion to get the gel down into the pores of the wood. Then I remove the excess going with the grain of the wood - like this:





Im able to do 1 sheet in an hour and 15 minutes, and have room in the shop to do 4 sheets at a time. I let the first coat dry completely overnight. Because there are some spots that are uneven and splotchy, I need to sand down the entire sheet(s) to even things out.
In the picture below, you can see 2 sheets - one sheet is sanded after the first coat, and the other is with a second coat of gel stain applied.



Below is a closer picture of the difference between a sanded side and a side with the second coat. Obviously, the more you can even out your coats, the better finish you will get.

There are 8 sheets that need a minimum of 8 coats each. Thats 64 coats, times 1.25 hours per coat = alot of time invested in finishing! This does not include the solid cherry trims that need 8-10 coats also! Remember though - dont rush!